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Lisbon

February 2019

The capital of Portugal is full of monuments and places to visit and its past and present history is clearly visible when we cross the city. Typical traditional cuisine, magnificent viewpoints as well as "fado", traditional Portuguese music, enrich our trip.  

No wonder then that Lisbon has become a European capital attracting millions of tourists every year!

This blog will guide you through the city, between discovery by tram and walking, you will discover a capital that has nothing to envy to London or Paris. A detour via the unmissable Sintra is also on the program.

Good discovery!

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Monuments & squares

Lisbon is a capital starting from the seaside and going up on several hills from which it is possible to have a panoramic view of the city below. On the banks of the Tejo, a river that crosses the city and flows into the Atlantic Ocean, are various historical monuments. It is thus possible to observe the Torre de Belém as well as the Padrão dos descobrimentos before looking up at the famous Lisbon red bridge that looks like the Golden Gate Bridge: Ponte 25 de Abril. Belém Tower was built to guard the entrance to the city's port and was thus a symbol of the departure point at sea for Portuguese explorers. The latter are commemorated on the "Padrão dos Descobrimentos" a few meters away. This imposing monument was erected in 1960 in memory of the many explorers who went to sea.

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Torre de Belem

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Padrão dos descobrimentos

Continuing our walk to the east, we then discover the Orient Museum, then the "Ribeira" market to reach one of the most famous squares in Lisbon: "Praça do Comércio" where the "Terreiro do Paço" is also located. ". The atmosphere that reigns in this square, at any time of the day, is warm and one lends itself willingly to strolling. 

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This square is located on the edge of the Tagus, many people meet there in the evening to watch the sunset and rest from their day's work. Several street musicians provide a summer atmosphere at this time, even if it was actually barely 5°C this February evening. As I looked up at the setting sun, the "25 de Abril" bridge appeared to complete this already superb view that was offered to me.

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Continuing a few meters to the east, we arrive in the Alfama district. This is where I had the opportunity, advised by a local resident, to spend an evening listening to "fado", traditional songs accompanied by string instruments. The small restaurant was full of amazed strangers who had come to watch the evening. Returning now towards the interior of the city, we find the cathedral, commonly called "Sé de Lisboa", built in 1147 after the recovery of the city from the hands of the Moors. Its construction mixes medieval, Romanesque and Gothic architecture. Overlooking the cathedral, we find the castle of São Jorge and its esplanade where many Lisbon residents bask. Inside the walls, a visit allows you to discover the history of the city.

The climb to the castle can be an opportunity to take the famous Lisbon yellow trams and then the buses to  to make the climb less tiring but I strongly encourage you to do the descent on foot in order to enjoy the view and discover the narrow streets that lead us  to the "Baixa" and to the "Chiado" to arrive at the "Bairro Alto". This is the emblematic district of the city where many people meet to party in the evening or to eat on the terrace during the day. However, the prices there are quite high since the district has gained in visibility. Continuing our walk back inside, we then arrive at the "Mosteiro dos Jerónimos", a Portuguese monastery listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1983. Today it houses the tombs of the greatest Portuguese writer, Luís de Camões , as well as the Portuguese navigator who discovered the sea route to India, Vasco da Gama.

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A three-minute walk from this grand architectural building is the home of the "Pasteis de Belém", typical Portuguese pastries. A large queue is formed at the entrance by many curious people wishing to settle in this café and taste the famous pastry. The popularity of this place is linked not only to the original production of this pastry but also to its decoration in blue and white tiles, a Portuguese trademark. I will say that if the queue is not too long, it is worth waiting a few minutes to settle in but if not, do not panic: the many small cafes in the city offer them Also these pastries and they are just as delicious!

The loop of the main monuments of the city thus ends with a welcome treat after these many kilometers covered. We thus find ourselves near the starting point of our walk, 10 minutes from the "Padrão dos descobrimentos".

Viewpoints

The city being surrounded by many hills, the panoramic points of view are not lacking. Here we will mention my favorites, but many others also exist. While the Padrão dos descobrimentos offers a breathtaking view of the city from below, I prefer the panorama offered by the Saint-Jorge Castle. The sunsets are incredible but you have to pay attention to the closing time of the walls to avoid being refused entry. The exit, then, can be done at the desired time. The descent on foot from the castle also allows you to observe the city above its red roofs and lose your gaze in the horizon.

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Among the other existing viewpoints, I will mention the Miradouro de Santa-Luzia. It is on the climb towards the São-Jorge castle and offers a view towards the east of the city while the castle allows you to observe the west. It is also possible to climb to the top of the Padrão dos Descorbrimentos in order to have a view from the south of the city.

Sintra

While the different places mentioned above are all located in Lisbon, we now reach Sintra in 30 minutes by train. In order to have the time to fully admire the city and its castles, you should ideally allow a day to get there, but this place is, in my opinion, a must. Once there, we will go directly up towards the castles in order to have the maximum energy and to be able to fully enjoy the view once at the top. The climb can also be done by mini bus or taxi for those who wish. Sintra is surmounted by two castles: "Castelo dos Mouros" and "Castelo da Pena". The first consists of the ruins of the walls left by the Moors on which visitors can walk and observe the panorama. We thus see the sea but also the whole plain that leads to Lisbon. Its panoramic view is  undoubtedly its strong point. As for the second castle, it remained intact and amazed me each of the three times I visited it. It must be said that its innumerable colors, its very varied architectural styles as well as its multiple interior rooms make the Castelo da Pena a work of art in its own right. Its terraces also offer beautiful views towards the horizon and the sea. 

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Castelo da Pena

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Remains of the Moors on one of the towers of the castle da Pena

Once the castles have been visited and after having savored the breathtaking view they offer, it is time to descend towards Sintra. In the city center is the National Palace of Sintra. The latter can be visited from the outside but also from  the interior where an impressive collection of typical tiles is visible, among other historical elements.

And we are now coming to the end of our trip, but before leaving Sintra and Lisbon for good, we have one last specialty to taste: ginja. It is a sweet liqueur made from cherries that many small specialized shops sell in Lisbon. What better way to end our trip than a little sweetness reminding us of the warm atmosphere and the colorful hues of the Portuguese capital?

  Saúde and to a next adventure!

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